Whether you’re shopping for your first mechanical keyboard or looking to upgrade, you will want to do some careful research to make the right choice. There are a lot of variances in mechanical keyboards, and everything will impact your typing experience.
When you are shopping for a mechanical keyboard, you will want to consider these factors:
- Size and layout
- Switch types
- Case material
- Keycaps and keycap profiles
- Wireless connectivity and other extras
All of these factors relate to and influence one another, but we have arranged them in what we think is the most important order. Below, we will break down why these factors matter when buying a new keyboard.
What are the benefits of buying a mechanical keyboard?
If you’ve never bought a mechanical keyboard before, you might be wondering why you should buy one at all. After all, membrane keyboards are a lot cheaper and do the job just as well, right?
Well, not quite. Membrane keyboards are a lot cheaper, but they are also more prone to inaccuracies. Membrane keyboards register keystrokes when the plastic “membrane” beneath the keycap makes contact with the circuit of the PCB beneath. This isn’t always reliable, though, and the analog nature of mechanical keyboards makes them more reliable.
Mechanical keyboards also have a more substantial construction and are often (at least partially) constructed out of premium materials like aluminum or wood. Membrane keyboards, on the other hand, are much thinner and are typically made of lower-quality plastic. That means membrane keyboards simply won’t last as long as a well-built mechanical keyboard.
How do I know what mechanical keyboard to get?
Which keyboard you want depends largely on what you will be using it for. Do you do a lot of number crunching in Excel sheets? Then you’ll want a keyboard with a numbpad. Do you use function keys a lot? Then you won’t want a 60% keyboard (we’ll explain that in a second).
The best way to figure out what mechanical keyboard you need is by doing a lot of research. Reading articles like this and watching YouTube videos is the best way to learn, and the mechanical keyboard community is large and actively engaged online. There’s no shortage of content to sift through.
Reading this article will give you a decent grasp of some of the most important terms, but after that, you can watch typing videos to get a feel for what you’re looking for.
How much should a computer keyboard cost?
If you want a membrane keyboard, you’re generally going to spend about $20. Budget mechanical keyboards can be found for $40-$50, but you may lose out on some of the customization features found on more expensive boards.
The comfortable range to spend on a quality mechanical keyboard is between $50-$150. You can spend well over $200 for the most premium keyboards, but it isn’t necessary to spend that much. You can get a great experience out of a midrange board, and half the fun of owning one is customizing the board to fit your individual needs.
#1 Size and layout
The first thing to consider when shopping for mechanical keyboards is the size and layout. The size is simply that, how big the keyboard is. The layout refers to the way the keys are arranged, and this can change quite a bit depending on the size.
Full-size: These keyboards have everything you could want. Full-size keyboards have a full row of function keys, a number pad, and modifier keys. These keyboards are great because they compromise on nothing, but they are also the widest keyboard option. If you have little desk space that means they may not be the best option, especially if you don’t use certain features like the number pad.
1800 layout (96%): This option is not very common, but they are out there. An 1800 layout keyboard doesn’t lose any keys, but it does condense the keys together to save a bit of space. That’s great if you want a keyboard with no compromises, but some of the keycap sizes are a bit unusual.
Tenkeyless (TKL)/80%: A tenkeyless keyboard is a full-size keyboard minus the number pad. That still gives you all the functionality of the function row and modifier keys. For that reason, tenkeyless keyboards tend to be very popular. Tenkeyless keyboards are commonly referred to as TKL or 80% keyboards.
75%: These keyboards have a slightly different layout than traditional desktop keyboards, and they are more in line with what you would see on a laptop. They lose a few of the modifier keys, but otherwise, they are the same as 80% boards, just more tightly put together to save space.
65/68%: These keyboards are the same width and layout as 75% boards but they ditch the function row. This profile is popular among users who want to travel with a keyboard because of its compact size.
60%: These keyboards have the same layout as traditional desktop keyboards, but they forgo the arrow keys, modifiers, and function row. You still get all the letter keys and the number row, so you can still have a solid typing experience. However, navigating and using functions can be a pain because you have to remember specific key combinations to utilize them.
40%: Don’t use these, ever. Just jettison the thought from your mind.
What mechanical keyboard size should you choose?
As we said before, that depends largely on what you use them for. Are you primarily a typist and don’t need the function keys? Then a 65% or 60% keyboard will do just fine for you. Do you need absolutely everything to get the most out of your macros? A full-size or 80% is probably the best option for you.
The most popular layouts and sizes tend to be 80%/TKL and 75% boards because they are a decent compromise between size and functionality.
#2 Switch type
Aside from the layout, the mechanical keyboard switches will have the biggest impact on your typing experience. Once you have nailed down the size you want, you will want to spend a good amount of time learning about different switches, how they feel and sound, and which one suits you the most.
The different switch types: clicky, linear, and tactile
There are all kinds of niche brands out there now that make keyboard switches, but they all pretty much fall under three categories: linear, tactile, and clicky switches.
Linear: Linear switches are smooth the entire time you press down on them. That makes them a great choice if you want a fluid typing experience. They also have a light actuation force compared to the other two types, which means you can type a bit faster with them. Linear switches are generally quieter than the other two options, so it makes them a great option for office workers.
Tactile: These switches have a “tactile bump” when the key actuates so you know when the keystroke is registered. However, they don’t create any noise doing this, so they are still a suitable option for office environments. Tactile switches are generally popular with gamers who want the tactile feedback.
Clicky: Clicky switches create an audible click when they actuate, so they are quite a bit louder than the other two switch types. If you’ve ever typed on a Razer keyboard in Best Buy, you’ve likely experienced a clicky switch. These switches also require the most force to actuate, so they usually aren’t the best for dedicated typists. There is something oddly satisfying about using them, though.
Optical vs mechanical switches
Optical switches operate in a similar way to mechanical switches, but they use an infrared laser to detect when the switch is actuated. In theory, these switches last a lot longer because fewer fiddly pieces are rubbing against one another. However, they are usually on very expensive boards, and they usually aren’t hot-swappable.
Which switch is right for me?
Unlike the size and layout, which switch is right for you is a matter of opinion. Any switches are going to get the job done. However, the sound is probably the most important thing to consider when you’re shopping for a particular keyboard switch.
If you work in an office environment, you probably want to get something like a linear that is less disruptive. They even make silent red switches to further reduce the sound of typing.
If you want to feel like you’re using a typewriter, clicky switches are great for that.
Tactile switches are usually a great middle-ground because they are reasonably quiet but still offer the tactile bump.
YouTube is a great place to determine which switch is right for you. We personally recommend Click and Thock because their channel has TONS of sound tests for all types of switches and the data they provide alongside it is insightful and informative.
You can also refer to our guide to mechanical switches to learn more.
Look for hot-swappable keyboards
When you are shopping for mechanical keyboards, look for a hot-swappable board. That means you can take out the switches and replace them with different ones without soldering. It’s quickly becoming a standard feature, but there are still boards that solder the switches in. If you want to get the most out of your keyboard for the long term, you will want this flexibility.
#3 Keycaps and keycap profile
Keycaps greatly impact the typing feel of any keyboard. There are two major factors to consider when looking at keycaps: the material and the keycap profile.
Most keycaps are made out of plastic, but the exact kind can make a difference in the feel and typing experience. The keycap profile indicates the size and shape of the keycap, and that can greatly affect how you type. Keycap profiles are also important to consider if you plan on swapping out the keycaps on a keyboard you currently own.
Keycap material
There are two common types of plastic used to create keycaps: ABS and PBT.
ABS: ABS stands for acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, which is a common type of plastic that is found in just about everything. ABS is popular in electronics because it is cheap. ABS keycaps are great if you are on a budget, but they are prone to developing a shine over time and overall just aren’t as durable.
PBT: PBT stands for polybutylene terephthalate. It’s a higher quality and more durable material. PBT keycaps also have a matte finish, so they are less prone to shine over time. You may also see some PBT keycaps referred to as doubleshot. Doubleshot PBT is produced in two pieces and then molded together. This makes them even more durable, and they are considered the gold standard for keycap quality.
Keycap profiles
Keycap profiles refer to the height and shape of a keycap. There are tons of options out there, but they generally come down to four distinct categories.
SA: SA keycaps are tall and have a rounded top. They create a deep sound profile that is often called “thocky”.
DSA: DSA caps are very low profile and have a uniform height. This is preferred among some users who want an even feel across their keycap set.
OEM: OEM keycaps are common on prebuilt mechanical keyboards. These keycaps have a sculpted design and varying height to provide an optimal typing experience.
Cherry: Cherry keycaps are the most common keycaps among enthusiasts. They have a sculpted design that is suited for typing and gaming, and they are generally considered one of the more ergonomic options.
#4 Keyboard case material
The case material is not quite as important as other features like the switches or keycaps, but they do impact the pitch and overall feel of the board. Plastic boards tend to have a deep or lower pitch, while aluminum boards tend toward mid-to-high pitches.
If you want to achieve thock, a plastic board is going to be easier to accomplish that with. Many boards are also a combination of plastic and aluminum.
Again we recommend watching some videos with different keyboard case materials to get the sound you want. It’s also worth noting that aluminum boards are generally more expensive.
#5 Wired or wireless?
Once you have determined everything else about the keyboard, you can start considering features like wireless connectivity. Most keyboards these days come with a wired or wireless connection, but some boards like the ones made by Ducky don’t. Wired keyboards offer a more stable connection, but wireless keyboards have made great strides in the past several years.
Some wireless keyboards, like the higher-end ones produced by Logitech, offer near-zero latency with their wireless speeds. However, the wired connection is always going to be more foolproof.
If you want a wireless keyboard, make sure you get one with 2.4 GHz wireless connectivity. This is more reliable than Bluetooth every time.
So which keyboard should I get?
Again, that depends on you and your specific needs. We have our recommendations for the best mechanical keyboards, but there is the option to build one yourself. You can get a barebones keyboard for as little as $60-$70 these days, and then all you have to do is buy the switches and keycaps and put them together.
We’ll save the how of building a mechanical keyboard for another article, but just know that it will likely be a bit more expensive. The benefit, though, it you get a keyboard that is exactly the way you want it to be.
FAQ
Are mechanical keyboards better for you?
No, not really. There aren’t any health benefits to using a mechanical keyboard. Some users report less hand fatigue when using a mechanical keyboard, but that depends on several factors. Mechanical keyboards are a lot more satisfying to type on, though, and you can’t put a price on a good experience.
What are the disadvantages of a mechanical keyboard?
Mechanical keyboards are great, but that doesn’t mean they are for everyone. They are usually quite heavy, and the amount of customization available can feel overwhelming. You can put a lot of time (and money) into finetuning your board, and that isn’t ideal for everyone.
What is the average life of a mechanical keyboard?
Most mechanical keyboards last around ten years. If you have a keyboard with soldered switches, and one of those switches fails, you will have to replace the whole board. However, hot-swappable boards offer more flexibility for replacing switches. In theory, that means a single board could last much, much longer.
Do I need to buy stabilizers for my keyboard?
Stabilizers help reduce the wobbling on larger keys like Enter or the spacebar. They aren’t necessary unless you notice these keys are wobbling. More premium boards usually have built-in stabilizers.